Dermaplaning has become a go-to for those looking for an easy, quick process to achieve baby-smooth, hairless skin. Think of it as a fancy version of shaving—but instead of a regular razor, a specially designed dermaplaning razor is used to gently remove peach fuzz (technically called vellus hair) and exfoliate the skin. The result? Smoother skin texture, better makeup application, and an instant confidence boost.

It’s especially popular among women with downy hair that tends to grow denser with age or because of conditions like polycystic ovary syndrome, which can lead to insecurity and low self-esteem. For many, it’s a dream come true—quick, effective, and a way to feel more polished.

But let’s be real, it’s not always as perfect as it sounds. If dermaplaning is done with the wrong type of tool or by an inexperienced hand, things can go wrong—think serious irritation, breakouts, and those internet horror stories you might have seen. And while some people swear by it for removing extremely fine hairs, it’s not the best option for everyone.

Can Dermaplaning Trigger Acne Breakouts?

Dermaplaning, a popular physical exfoliation method, doesn’t inherently cause acne, but if done inappropriately or with unsanitary tools, it can potentially trigger breakouts. For sensitive individuals, overly aggressive scraping or neglecting proper aftercare, like using non-comedogenic products, may irritate the skin or lead to clogged pores.

While dermaplaning can reduce the appearance of acne scars, attempting it on active breakouts or without professional guidance might worsen skin concerns or aggravate conditions like fungal acne. Proper care ensures the benefits of dermaplaning without unwanted side effects.

What is derma planning?

Ever noticed those fine, colorless hairs—called vellus hairs—on your face, especially under the eyes or near the eyebrows? These tiny hairs, often known as “peach fuzz,” don’t serve much of a purpose but can sometimes make your skin look dull by trapping oil or dead skin. That’s where dermaplaning comes in!

Dermaplaning is a popular skin treatment designed to refresh and revitalize your skin’s appearance by removing dead skin cells and vellus hair. Using a specialized scalpel, a trained professional gently scrapes off the top layer of skin during this superficial exfoliation procedure. This process not only reveals smoother, radiant skin but also enhances skincare absorption and makes makeup application a breeze.

According to Maja Swierczynska, a dermaplaning trainer and lead aesthetic practitioner at the STORY Clinic in London, the treatment is immensely safe when performed in a sterile environment by a qualified aesthetician or dermatologist.

Beyond its reputation as a hair removal treatment, dermaplaning offers a host of other benefits. This non-invasive, quick, and relatively painless procedure delivers immediate results, leaving skin glowing and with a more youthful outlook. By removing the top layer of dead skin, it can improve skin texture, boost brightness, and create a smooth surface for moisturizers and serums to absorb better.

While it’s suitable for most skin types, combining dermaplaning with a comprehensive skincare regimen that includes cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting can help extend the results for up to 3-4 weeks. This relaxing, inexpensive treatment is a simple yet effective strategy to keep your skin looking its best.

How does dermaplanning work?

It is a precise exfoliation technique that uses a fine blade to remove the top layer of dead skin cells, dirt, and vellus hairs from the face, while also helping to clear the pilosebaceous unit—the facial orifice made up of the hair follicle and sebaceous gland.

This process not only improves skin texture but also helps regulate sebum (natural skin oil) production by ensuring the acid mantle and moisture barrier—a protective layer made of lipids, fatty acids, and triglycerides—remain intact. By keeping the skin smooth and free of trapped oil, it prevents issues like pimples, ingrown hairs, and razor bumps, which often occur when hair curls up or burrows into the skin.

The gentle scraping motion used in dermaplaning ensures that bacteria, anaerobic conditions, and waste products don’t accumulate under the skin, which can otherwise lead to red, inflamed breakouts. Unlike shaving, dermaplaning is designed to avoid cutting hair too close, making it safer for sensitive skin prone to irritation.

However, the skin may be more exposed after the procedure, so using sunscreen and avoiding harsh physical scrubs is essential to protect the newly exfoliated skin. Taking proper precautions, such as following the hair’s direction of growth, ensures the treatment is both effective and safe, leaving skin smooth, glowing, and free from trapped hairs or oils.

Why Do Some People Break Out After Dermaplaning?

Dermaplaning itself doesn’t directly cause acne, but certain factors can make your skin more vulnerable to breakouts. The procedure involves using a blade to gently scrape the skin’s surface, removing dead skin cells and fine vellus hairs. While this exfoliation leaves your skin feeling smoother and looking more radiant, it can also increase its exposure to bacteria, especially if improper techniques or unclean tools are used.

For those with sensitive or acne-prone skin, this increased vulnerability can lead to acne flare-ups, redness, or even minor abrasions. According to experts like Maja Swierczynska, avoiding dermaplaning over active acne is crucial to prevent the spread of bacteria, which could exacerbate existing issues and create a fresh breakout.

Normal side effects from dermaplaning

After dermaplaning, it’s common to experience some normal side effects, especially if you’re new to this type of mechanical exfoliation. Your skin might feel slightly irritated or show mild redness, which is expected as the blade gently removes the top layer of dead skin cells. Occasionally, skin dryness can follow the procedure, but this can be managed with proper hydration and aftercare.

If the tool isn’t handled carefully, there’s a rare chance of a minor cut or laceration, which is why it’s best to have the treatment done by a dermatology provider rather than trying dermaplaning at home.

For some, over-exfoliation may trigger symptoms like increased irritation or even a minor acne breakout, though this is uncommon when done correctly.

To reduce the risk of any side effects, professionals often recommend following up with gentle, soothing products and avoiding heavy or irritating skincare immediately after the procedure. By being careful and consulting with an expert, you can enjoy the benefits of dermaplaning without worry!

What Can Cause a Bad Reaction To Dermaplaning?

Even though dermaplaning is a low-risk procedure when done by a trained professional, certain factors can lead to a bad reaction:

• Over-exfoliation: Stripping away the protective layer of the skin can leave it vulnerable to irritation, inflammation, and acne breakouts.
• Pre-existing skin conditions: Individuals with rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, or a history of cold sores may experience exacerbated symptoms.
• Spreading bacteria: Performing dermaplaning at home or over active acne increases the risk of spreading bacteria, which could worsen breakouts.
• Improper aftercare: Using comedogenic oils or silicone-based products post-treatment can clog pores and trigger breakouts.
• Cutting vellus hairs too close: If hairs are removed too super close, it can block oil escape, potentially leading to irritation and acne.
• Sensitive or recently damaged skin: A recent sunburn or use of Accutane or isotretinoin within the last six months makes skin unsuitable for dermaplaning.
• Poor technique: Without professional supervision, incorrect methods or damaging treatments could result in significant side effects, including cuts and severe irritation.

As Nicola Russell, a celebrity facialist from Skin Geek Clinic, notes, identifying the ideal candidate and ensuring the treatment is done by a professional can minimize risks and ensure safe results.

Does the Frequency of Dermaplaning Affect Acne?

The frequency of dermaplaning plays a key role in preventing acne and other skin issues. Overdoing it with frequent sessions can lead to too much exfoliation, which may irritate the skin, disrupt the barrier, and leave it vulnerable to inflammation and breakouts.

Allowing the skin to recover between sessions is crucial, especially for those with acne-prone skin. Tailoring the treatment to your individual skin type and regularly monitoring your skin’s response helps avoid problems like stripping away the protective layer or increasing sensitivity. Professionals often recommend spacing out sessions to reduce the risk of irritation while maintaining healthy skin.

Can Dermaplaning Cause Cystic Acne?

While dermaplaning doesn’t directly cause cystic acne, improper techniques or using a non-sterile surgical scalpel can aggravate acne-prone skin and potentially trigger severe breakouts. For safe results, always have the procedure done by a professional.

How Does Dermaplaning Affect Acne Scars?

Dermaplaning is often debated for its role in improving acne scars, but it does offer exfoliation benefits that can help reduce the appearance of superficial acne scars by removing dead skin cells and smoothing out discolored, uneven skin.

However, it’s important to note that the procedure is not effective for deeper scarring, as it doesn’t reach those layers. By promoting cell turnover and differentiating between dead and healthy skin cells, dermaplaning supports better skin health, but it must be done with care.

For those with acne-prone skin, avoiding the treatment during breakouts and focusing on times of minimal breakouts or low inflammation is essential. Always follow precautions, including proper skin sanitization, using a fresh, sterile blade, and skipping irritating activities like applying retinol afterward. While helpful, alternatives may be better for treating more severe scars.

Is Dermaplaning Recommended for Acne-Prone Skin?

For acne-prone skin, dermaplaning can be both helpful and risky. While it removes the top layer of dead skin cells and vellus hair, leaving skin smooth and rejuvenated, it’s not ideal if you have active acne. The scalpel can aggravate breakouts, spread bacteria, and potentially trigger more breakouts, especially for those with sensitive skin or who’ve recently used strong acne medication.

However, for individuals without active breakouts, dermaplaning can make acne products work better by unclogging pores and reducing bacteria. Always consult a dermatologist to weigh the risks and benefits for your specific skin condition.

How Can One Treat a Breakout After Dermaplaning?

Immediate Steps to Manage Breakouts

• Cleanse gently: Use a non-comedogenic, mild cleanser to clean your skin without irritating it further. Keep your skin clean and dry to reduce the risk of spreading bacteria.
• Apply acne treatments: Use spot treatments with gentle, effective ingredients like mild hydrocortisone cream or products recommended by a skincare specialist. Avoid overdoing it with retinol or harsh exfoliants post-procedure.
• Moisturize to restore the barrier: Hydrate your skin with non-comedogenic, light moisturizers or soothing products like Squalane oil to nourish skin without clogging pores.

Additional Tips to Prevent Worsening

• Avoid touching or picking: Keep your hands off your face to prevent bacteria from aggravating the breakout.
• Sun protection is key: Apply SPF to protect your skin from damage, as post-dermaplaning sensitivity can worsen scarring from breakouts.
• Skip irritating activities: Avoid sweating, applying makeup, or harsh treatments until your skin fully heals.
• Consult a dermatologist: For severe breakouts, consult a dermatologist for personalized advice or, if needed, a steroid injection to manage inflammation.

By staying patient and following these steps, you can treat post-dermaplaning breakouts effectively while maintaining healthy skin.

How Can One Prevent Breakouts After Dermaplaning?

Pre-Dermaplaning Preparation

• Research the clinic: Choose a trained practitioner or dermatologist with good reviews to ensure the treatment is done safely.
• Avoid active ingredients: Stop using retinoids, tretinoin, or strong exfoliants 3 to 5 days before your session to minimize sensitivity.
• Skip dermaplaning if unsuitable: Avoid the procedure if you have severe sunburn, active breakouts, or are on Accutane within the past 6 months.
• Ensure a well-prepared session: Use fresh, sterile blades and maintain hygiene with clean hands to avoid bacterial transfer.

Post-Dermaplaning Aftercare

• Apply SPF: Protect your freshly exfoliated skin with sunscreen (SPF 30) for at least 3 days, as the procedure makes your skin more vulnerable to sun damage.
• Avoid makeup: Skip makeup for the first 24 hours to prevent clogging pores and causing an acne breakout.
• Gentle cleansing: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser, using clean hands, and always pat dry instead of rubbing to avoid irritation.
• Avoid irritants: Refrain from physical scrubs, heat, saunas, or excessive exercise that can cause sweat and worsen sensitivity.
• Use non-comedogenic moisturizers like gel or cream-based products to hydrate without clogging pores.

By following these precautions and maintaining a quality skincare regimen, you can minimize the risk of breakouts while reaping the benefits of dermaplaning.

Is It Normal to Experience a Breakout After Dermaplaning at Home?

Yes, it’s fairly common to experience breakouts after dermaplaning at home, especially if proper precautions aren’t followed. The procedure involves removing the top layer of skin, which can leave your face more vulnerable to irritation and bacteria spread if the blade isn’t sterile or used correctly.

This can result in an adverse reaction or lead to developing acne sooner than expected. At-home dermaplaning lacks the precision and hygiene of professional treatments, so consulting an expert is recommended to minimize risks.

What Should One Consider Before Deciding To Undergo Dermaplaning?

Before deciding on dermaplaning, it’s crucial to consider your skin type and any underlying skin conditions. Individuals with sensitive skin, active acne, cystic acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, or a history of cold sores should avoid the procedure as it can worsen issues or increase the risk of infection and spreading bacteria, potentially causing breakouts.

Professional dermaplaning is highly recommended to ensure it’s performed hygienically, reducing the chance of cuts, scarring, or other complications. Proper aftercare is also essential—avoid exfoliants, harsh cleansers, and makeup for a short period after the procedure, and protect your freshly exfoliated skin with SPF to prevent sun damage. Always consult a skincare professional to determine if dermaplaning is suitable and safe for your skin type.

Who Should Avoid Dermaplaning?

• Active skin conditions: Avoid dermaplaning if you have active acne, cystic acne, rosacea, psoriasis, eczema, or dermatitis, as the procedure can irritate these conditions.
• Damaged or sensitive skin: It’s not suitable for damaged skin, including areas with moles or tags, or for those with highly sensitive skin prone to facial redness and dry, itchy skin.
• Medication-related concerns: Individuals on isotretinoin or Accutane for severe acne should wait at least six months after stopping the medication before considering dermaplaning.
• Potential risks: The use of a scalpel in this mechanical exfoliation procedure can increase the risk of irritation, dryness, and an acne breakout, especially if the skin is already compromised.

Alternate options to exfoliate your skin

Chemical Exfoliation: A Gentler Alternative

If mechanical exfoliation like dermaplaning doesn’t suit your skin or tends to trigger acne breakouts, chemical exfoliation offers an effective alternative. Using acids like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or trichloroacetic acid (TCA) can help gently remove the top layer of skin without the abrasiveness of physical methods.

These treatments, available in both over-the-counter and non-prescription strengths, improve skin tone and texture while addressing acne scars, photo-aging, fine lines, and wrinkles. For acne-prone skin, beta hydroxyl acid (BHA) like salicylic acid works particularly well to unclog pores and reduce inflammation.

In-Office vs. At-Home Chemical Peels

Chemical peels come in different strengths and depths, ranging from superficial peels for mild exfoliation to medium-depth peels that offer more dramatic results. In-office treatments provided by dermatology providers can target deeper issues like visible signs of aging or uneven pigmentation with careful supervision.

For milder exfoliation at home, alpha hydroxyl acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid are effective when incorporated into a regular skincare regimen. However, individuals with dark skin or sensitive skin types should seek professional advice to minimize the increased risk of side effects or prolonged healing time.

Wrapping Up: The Truth About Dermaplaning and Acne

So, is dermaplaning really to blame for acne? The short answer is no—but it’s all about how you care for your skin before and after the treatment. As we’ve discussed, choosing a professional, avoiding harsh products, and following the right aftercare can make all the difference. When done correctly, dermaplaning can leave your skin glowing and smooth without the worry of breakouts. Just remember: your skin’s needs are unique, so listen to it and give it the care it deserves!

FAQS

Can I Use Retinol After Dermaplaning?
Yes, but wait at least 24 hours to avoid irritating your freshly exfoliated skin.

Can I Use Salicylic Acid After Dermaplaning?
No, skip salicylic acid right after Dermaplaning—it’s too harsh for sensitive post-treatment skin.

Can I Exercise After Dermaplaning?
Yes, but give your skin 6 to 8 hours to recover before sweating it out.

Can I Use a Face Mask After Dermaplaning?
Absolutely! Opt for a hydrating or soothing mask that’s gentle on sensitive skin.