Azelaic acid has quickly become a skincare stalwart that dermatologists and skincare enthusiasts can’t stop talking about. With its skin-rejuvenating powers, it’s a favorite of dermatologists who rave about its ability to improve skin texture, tackle hyperpigmentation, and even unclog pores.
But with its rise in popularity, people often find themselves wondering if azelaic acid could cause purging or actually cause acne. After all, it’s a relatively gentle ingredient compared to harsher treatments, but some may still have concerns about how it will work within their skincare regimen.
Despite initial skepticism, azelaic acid is widely regarded as a versatile ingredient with benefits for a variety of skin issues, including acne, rosacea, and melasma. It’s FDA approved, a topical treatment that’s effective in managing acne—whether you’re dealing with cystic acne or pimples.
With its keratolytic properties, it exfoliates dead skin cells, helps prevent whiteheads and blackheads, and even lightens acne scars. Far from causing acne, azelaic acid works to reduce inflammation and calm redness, acting as a powerful yet gentle solution. So, if you’re tired of the chaos in your routine and need a new super chill friend in your skincare gang, azelaic acid might be the unsung skincare hero you’ve been looking for.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound classified as a dicarboxylic acid, found in grains such as wheat, barley, and rye, as well as in yeast. This skin care ingredient is widely used in both over the counter and prescription skincare products. It possesses potent antioxidant properties, which help neutralize free radicals and protect the skin from oxidative stress. As a mild exfoliant, azelaic acid gently removes dead skin cells, promoting a smoother skin texture without harsh irritation. It is also keratolytic, meaning it helps break down keratin in the skin, which can unclog pores and prevent breakouts. Azelaic acid works effectively to regulate cell turnover and address skin concerns like acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation.
The compound’s action on the skin microbiome helps balance the bacteria on the skin’s surface, making it a powerful tool in preventing the overgrowth of acne-causing bacteria. Azelaic acid is available in various formulations and is a favored ingredient among aesthetic doctors for treating acne, rosacea, and other skin concerns. In a study conducted by the American Academy of Dermatology, azelaic acid was found to reduce the appearance of acne lesions by 50% after 6 weeks of use.
The Science Behind Azelaic Acid: How It Works to Transform Your Skin
A Powerful Acne-Fighting Ingredient
Azelaic acid has quickly earned its place as a skincare stalwart, especially when it comes to tackling acne. Known for its antibacterial and comedolytic properties, it targets the root causes of breakouts by unclogging pores, reducing acne-related inflammation, and killing acne bacteria. Whether you’re dealing with moderate acne or cystic acne, azelaic acid has been shown to be effective in preventing new pimples while healing existing ones. It’s a gentle, topical treatment that provides strong enough results to compete with other treatments like salicylic acid or even prescription meds like Accutane, but with far less risk of irritation. If you’ve been struggling with acne-prone skin, azelaic acid could be your new skincare gang member, fighting the battle against breakouts without disrupting your skin’s natural balance.
A Gentle Exfoliant That Cleanses the Skin
Exfoliation is key to maintaining clear, radiant skin, and azelaic acid brings a gentle yet effective approach. Unlike more aggressive acids such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid, azelaic acid exfoliates without over-drying or irritating the skin. It works by gently removing dead skin cells and debris that can contribute to clogged pores and breakouts. By increasing turnover rates and reducing melanin production, azelaic acid also helps to fade dark spots and even out skin tone. Its keratolytic properties support gentle exfoliation, making it a good option for those with sensitive skin who want smoother, brighter skin without the harsh effects of other exfoliants.
Fading Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation
If you’re dealing with post-acne scars, sun damage, or hyperpigmentation, azelaic acid is here to help. Its lightening properties can gradually fade dark spots and improve skin texture over time. Whether you have melasma, acne scars, or dark spots caused by sun exposure, azelaic acid works by inhibiting the enzymes responsible for producing excess melanin. This helps to balance out skin tone and reduce discoloration. It’s an ideal solution for those who have struggled with skin imperfections but want a gentler approach than harsher treatments like chemical peels or stronger AHAs.
Reducing Redness and Soothing Inflammation
Azelaic acid is not just about targeting acne – it also provides soothing relief for sensitive or irritated skin. Its anti-inflammatory properties make it perfect for calming the redness and discomfort associated with conditions like rosacea, perioral dermatitis, or general skin irritation. If you have sensitive skin or blemish-prone skin, azelaic acid can help calm inflammation and reduce the appearance of redness without the irritation typically associated with other active ingredients. It’s a great anti-inflammatory choice for those who want to keep their skin feeling soothing and cool while also treating active breakouts.
Safe for All Skin Types, Including Sensitive Skin
One of the standout benefits of azelaic acid is that it’s suitable for a wide range of skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s naturally occurring in foods like whole grains, barley, and rye, but can also be found in synthetic forms in skincare products. Its gentle nature makes it ideal for those with oily skin, dry skin, or combination skin, and its even pregnancy safe. For those with oily skin, azelaic acid can be used on its own, as it helps to balance oil production while unclogging pores and keeping breakouts at bay. However, if you have dry skin, it’s important to layer it with a moisturizer to avoid any potential dryness or irritation. Azelaic acid’s gentle exfoliating action can leave the skin feeling a bit tight, so pairing it with a hydrating cream can help keep your skin balanced, hydrated, and protected. Whether you’re dealing with acne, rosacea, or general skin discoloration, azelaic acid works to maintain skin stability, promote a clearer complexion, and keep your skin looking fresh without over-drying or causing irritation.
Azelaic acid is not only effective for acne and hyperpigmentation but also an excellent option for those with sensitive skin. It’s known for its gentle exfoliating properties, which help improve skin texture without the irritation commonly associated with stronger acids like glycolic acid.
Does azelaic acid really cause purging?
When you first incorporate azelaic acid into your skincare routine, it’s not uncommon to experience purging. During this phase, your skin might throw a zit party, with breakouts, pimples, and even a bit of redness or irritation. But don’t be discouraged—this temporary purging is actually a sign that azelaic acid is working. The product accelerates skin cell turnover, pushing dead skin cells, excess oil, and debris to the surface. Essentially, it’s like giving your skin a spring cleaning by clearing out the clogged pores, acne-causing bacteria, and sebum build-up that were causing congestion. Yes, it might feel uncomfortable at first but hang in there—mild purging is often the first step towards achieving that smooth, radiant skin texture.
But don’t worry, the purging process is usually short-lived and can be much less intense compared to stronger exfoliants like retinoids or AHAs. Azelaic acid is known for its gentle nature and often causes only mild purging—especially for those with acne-prone skin. As it works to reduce inflammation, treat acne, and brighten skin, the skin adjustment period is crucial. While your skin is adjusting, you may experience some acne-related irritation and flare-ups, but once your skin has settled, you’ll notice a clearer skin complexion. The purging reaction isn’t forever; instead, it paves the way for healthier skin with fewer breakouts and improved skin tone.
It’s important to note that skin irritation from purging is generally temporary. If the acne or irritation lasts longer than a few weeks or intensifies, it could be due to overuse or a mismatch with your other skincare products. In such cases, it’s a good idea to use a non-comedogenic moisturizer to soothe the skin and help prevent further acne-related inflammation. Azelaic acid helps to regulate skin turnover while preventing clogged pores and further breakouts, but patience is key. Once the purging process is over, your skin should reveal its natural radiance, smoother texture, and an even complexion. Keep in mind that azelaic acid is a powerhouse in treating acne, hyperpigmentation, and skin concerns, so even though the first few weeks might be a bit bumpy, it’s all part of the journey to glowing skin.
Azelaic acid is a great solution for acne, but if you’re dealing with breakouts and drinking energy drinks like Celsius, you might want to explore how they impact your skin. Learn more in our article Does Celsius Cause Acne?
What is the correct way to use azelaic acid?
Start with a Patch Test
Before diving in headfirst, it’s always wise to patch test azelaic acid. A small area on your forehead or under your jaw is perfect for checking any potential irritation or adverse reactions. Apply a thin layer in the evening and leave it for a few hours (or overnight). If you don’t notice any tingling, redness, or discomfort, it’s a green light to proceed. Patch testing is your first step in making sure azelaic acid is a skincare soulmate for your unique skin. Once you’ve ensured it’s safe, you can start incorporating it into your routine—just don’t expect magic beans or instant results. Give your skin time to adjust, and remember, consistency is key!
Start Slowly and Build Up
When starting with azelaic acid, it’s best to ease your skin into it. Begin by applying it every other night to give your skin a chance to acclimate. You’ll want to keep the application to a thin layer at first, just to avoid irritation. After a week, if all goes smoothly with no major drama, you can increase the frequency to nightly, or as your skin allows. Keep your skincare routine simple and be sure to use a gentle cleanser to remove the day’s grime, followed by a moisturizer to lock in hydration. If you have dry skin, consider a richer cream, while oily skin types might go for a lightweight gel moisturizer to balance out the drying effects. Don’t forget your sunscreen—azelaic acid can make you a bit more sensitive to UV rays, so slather on SPF during the day.
Listen to Your Skin
The key to getting the most out of azelaic acid lies in tuning into what your skin is telling you. If you’re experiencing mild purging or redness, don’t panic—it’s often just your skin adjusting. Give it patience and a little time, as results come gradually. Also, don’t skip your moisturizer. Your skin will appreciate the added hydration and the balance it brings to the drying effects of the acid. As your skin gets more used to azelaic acid, you’ll start to notice improvements like a clearer, more even complexion. And remember sunscreen is your BFF! Azelaic acid can leave your skin more vulnerable to sun exposure, so protect your skin every day. Keep this up, and you’ll be glowing in no time.
Layering Azelaic Acid in Your Skincare Routine
When it comes to layering your azelaic acid with other products, it typically comes after your cleanser and toner. Azelaic acid works best as a treatment step, so you’ll want to apply it after cleansing and toning, but before any thicker treatments like moisturizers. If you’re using serums, the general rule is to apply the thinnest consistency first, so you would apply azelaic acid right after your toner and serum (if you use one). This way, the azelaic acid can penetrate into your skin and work its magic on skin cell turnover and acne without being blocked by thicker products. After the azelaic acid settles in, then apply a moisturizer to seal everything in and keep your skin hydrated.
Don’t Skip Sunscreen After Azelaic Acid
After applying azelaic acid, sunscreen should be your final step every morning. This ingredient can make your skin more sensitive to UV rays, so sunscreen is a must. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher to protect your skin from the harmful effects of the sun, which could lead to hyperpigmentation and skin irritation. Even if you’re not planning to be in direct sunlight, it’s best to wear sunscreen as a protective measure. Layering sunscreen after azelaic acid is essential for keeping your skin healthy and preventing any potential damage from UV exposure. Remember, sunscreen is your BFF when it comes to maintaining a glowing complexion while using azelaic acid—don’t skip it!
When to Use Azelaic Acid: AM, PM, or Both?
Azelaic acid can be used both in the morning (AM) and at night (PM), depending on your skincare routine and preferences. However, it’s more commonly used in the PM routine because some people find it can increase sun sensitivity, especially if used in combination with other exfoliating agents. Using it at night gives it the opportunity to work its magic while your skin is in repair mode during sleep.
That said, azelaic acid can absolutely be used in the AM as well, but if you’re applying it during the day, it’s crucial to follow up with sunscreen to protect your skin from sun damage and hyperpigmentation. The key is to listen to your skin—if you’re just starting out, it’s a good idea to use it at night and gradually incorporate it into your morning routine as your skin builds tolerance.
Products to Pair Azelaic Acid with, for AM and PM Routines
AM Routine:
- Gentle Cleanser: Start with a gentle cleanser to remove any overnight buildup of oils and impurities without stripping your skin.
- Toner (Optional): A hydrating toner can help balance your skin’s pH, especially if you have dry or sensitive skin. Look for one with ingredients like glycerin or hyaluronic acid for moisture.
- Azelaic Acid: Apply a thin layer of azelaic acid after your toner. This will help target acne, redness, and hyperpigmentation throughout the day.
- Moisturizer: Follow up with a hydrating moisturizer to keep your skin nourished and plump. If you have oily skin, choose a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturizer.
- Sunscreen: Finally, finish with a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher sunscreen to protect against UV damage and prevent any post-acne marks from darkening. Don’t skip this step!
PM Routine:
- Cleanser: Cleanse your skin thoroughly to remove makeup, dirt, and oils from the day. A gentle cleanser is still best, as it will not disrupt your skin’s natural barrier.
- Exfoliant (Optional): If your skin can tolerate it, you can add a very gentle exfoliant like a hydroxy acid (AHA or BHA) a few times a week but avoid using this on the same day as other potent actives like retinoids. If you prefer not to exfoliate, you can skip this step.
- Azelaic Acid: Apply azelaic acid as a treatment step. This is your active ingredient for the night, working to reduce inflammation, treat acne, and lighten dark spots while you sleep.
- Moisturizer: Follow up with a nourishing moisturizer to lock in hydration. If you have dry skin, opt for a richer, more emollient cream, while oily skin types might prefer a lighter gel-based moisturizer.
- Optional Night Mask: If your skin is feeling particularly dry or irritated, you can add a soothing overnight mask after moisturizing.
Pro Tip: If you’re incorporating other strong actives like retinoids or salicylic acid into your routine, be mindful of your skin’s reaction. These can be used on different nights but pairing them together in one routine may cause excess irritation or dryness.
What not to mix with azelaic acid?
When using azelaic acid, it’s important to avoid mixing it with certain active ingredients to prevent irritation or imbalanced skin.
- Avoid combining with other exfoliating acids like AHAs, BHAs, or salicylic acid.
- Retinol should not be used at the same time as azelaic acid due to potential irritation.
- Glycolic acid and salicylic acid can also cause over-exfoliation if used together.
For a balanced skincare routine, avoid mixing too many strong actives and focus on formulations that maintain a healthy skin barrier, to ensure you achieve that radiant complexion without overloading your skin.
If you’re using both azelaic acid and retinol in your skincare routine, it’s important to know how they interact. For more information on whether retinol could cause breakouts, be sure to read Can Retinol Trigger Breakouts?
FAQS:
How long does in azelaic acid purge last?
Azelaic acid purging typically lasts 2 to 6 weeks. This period involves the surfacing of underlying breakouts as the skin undergoes increased cell turnover. If the purging lasts longer than that or worsens, it may be a sign to consult a dermatologist.
Can azelaic acid make you break out?
Yes, azelaic acid can initially cause breakouts due to its exfoliating properties. This is known as purging, where the acid accelerates cell turnover, bringing clogged pores and existing acne to the surface. This is temporary, and your skin should improve as it adjusts.
How do you know if azelaic acid is working?
You’ll notice clearer skin, reduced breakouts, and fading dark spots after consistent use over 4-6 weeks. Your complexion may become more even, with visible improvement in acne scars and overall texture.
Is 10% azelaic acid too much?
No, 10% azelaic acid is a safe and effective concentration for most users. It’s commonly found in over-the-counter products and is great for treating acne, rosacea, and pigmentation issues without being too harsh on the skin.
Does azelaic acid permanently lighten skin?
Azelaic acid helps to lighten hyperpigmentation, acne scars, and dark spots, but these results are not permanent. For ongoing effects, continued use is necessary, and the results can fade if you stop using it.
What moisturizer goes well with azelaic acid?
Look for a non-comedogenic moisturizer that suits your skin type. A rich cream is ideal for dry skin, while those with oily skin can opt for a lightweight gel moisturizer. Always moisturize after applying azelaic acid to keep your skin hydrated and balanced.
Do I need to exfoliate if I use azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid itself provides mild exfoliation. Over-exfoliating could irritate the skin, so there’s no need to add other exfoliants to your routine unless recommended by a dermatologist. Stick to a gentle regimen to avoid stripping your skin.
Which is better, glycolic acid or azelaic acid?
Both acids are beneficial, but they serve different purposes. Glycolic acid is a stronger exfoliant that helps with overall texture, while azelaic acid is gentler and targets acne, rosacea, and pigmentation. For sensitive skin or persistent acne, azelaic acid may be the better choice.
Does azelaic acid remove acne scars?
Yes, azelaic acid can help fade acne scars and hyperpigmentation by inhibiting melanin production and promoting skin regeneration. With consistent use, it can even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots.
Is tretinoin better than azelaic acid?
Tretinoin is more potent and works faster on severe acne and fine lines, but it can cause irritation. Azelaic acid, on the other hand, is milder and targets acne and pigmentation with fewer side effects. Both are effective but depend on your skin type and concerns.
Should I stop using azelaic acid if it itches?
Mild itching during the initial phase of use is common as your skin adjusts to the product. If the itching is severe or persistent, you may need to reduce the frequency of application or consult a dermatologist to determine if it’s an allergic reaction.
Is 20% azelaic acid too strong?
20% azelaic acid is stronger and often prescribed for more stubborn cases of acne or pigmentation. For most users, 10% is sufficient, and 20% may cause irritation if you have sensitive skin. Start with a lower concentration and gradually increase if needed.
Should I stop using azelaic acid if it burns?
Mild tingling or burning is normal during the initial phase, but if the sensation is strong or painful, it’s a sign to stop using it. Burning can indicate irritation or sensitivity, and it’s best to discontinue use and consult a dermatologist.
Which skin type is azelaic acid best for?
Azelaic acid is suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. It’s particularly effective for acne-prone, rosacea-prone, and pigmentation-prone skin. It’s gentle enough for those with redness or irritation but still powerful enough to address these concerns.
What happens if you don’t wear sunscreen with azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to wear sunscreen daily. Without SPF, your skin may become more prone to sunburn, irritation, and pigmentation, especially if you’re using azelaic acid for dark spots or acne scars.
What percentage of azelaic acid is effective?
10% azelaic acid is effective for most people and can be used in over-the-counter products. Higher concentrations (like 15-20%) are available in prescription formulas for more severe acne or pigmentation issues.
Which is more effective, niacinamide or azelaic acid?
Niacinamide is great for reducing redness and strengthening the skin barrier, while azelaic acid is more focused on treating acne, rosacea, and pigmentation. They can complement each other well in a skincare routine, but for active acne treatment, azelaic acid is often the better choice.
What happens if you overuse azelaic acid?
Overuse can lead to irritation, redness, and dryness. It’s important to stick to the recommended application frequency to avoid over-exfoliating your skin, which can cause inflammation and worsen sensitivity.
